As we all know, a bodylift is when we lift the body of the Hilux up and away from the chassis of the Hilux. On older model this hasnt been a problem due to the fact that most older Hilux's haven't had airbags fitted, but the current vehicle has and unfortunately for us up to now vehicle engineers have been hesitant to sign off on this particular modification because (A) they dont understand how the airbag system work and (B) they are reluctant to sign off on a modification that (as I have been told by 2 different engineers in the past) may contribute to the death of a vehicle occupant in an accident by affecting the deployment of the airbags, and they are not prepared to stand in front of a judge and explain why they signed off on a dangerous modification. The truth is, the modification is not dangerous if dont properly and has been done for a while now is both Europe and South Africa.....some places in Europe are even engineering 4" bodylift's (100mm) without suspension lifts, and being TUV Certified. I'll begin with the location of the bodymounts on the Hilux and then continue with the information you will all need to put forward to your vehicle engineer of choice to consider for a bodylift for a hilux.
Location of Hilux Bodymounts
NOTE: NOTE: The front two factory body blocks as seen on the diagram above are 50mm OD and the rest are 76mm OD, meaning you must use the same diameter replacement blocks as factory or larger otherwise the weight of the cabin is supported by a mount smaller than the factory. This could result in the floor pan cracking or worse, the mount joining you inside the cabin from constant pounding on dirt roads. I'll now get into the document that myself and Rod put together that you will all be able to use in the future- "Hilux SRS Airbag system (April 2005 on)
The vehicle is equipped with a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), which consists of a steering pad, front passenger airbag, seat belt pretensioner, center airbag sensor and front airbag sensor. The location of these items is shown in Figure 1 and Figure 2, Below:
The schematic for the SRS components shown above are outlined in Figure 3 below:
The center airbag sensor deceleration sensor uses the front airbag sensor's deceleration sensor signal to determine whether or not to activate the airbag. The center airbag sensor safing sensor is designed to activate at a deceleration rate that is lower than that of the center airbag sensor deceleration sensor. When the safing sensor and deceleration sensor turn on simultaneously, current flows to the squib and the airbag deploys. This is shown graphically in the diagram below.
When the vehicle is in a collision and the shock is greater than the specified value, the SRS is activated automatically. The safing sensor and deceleration sensor are built into the center airbag sensor. The safing sensor is designed to be turned on at a smaller deceleration rate than the deceleration sensor. The deceleration sensor determines whether or not SRS deployment is necessary based on signals from the front airbag sensor. Current flows to the squibs to deploy the SRS when the conditions shown in the illustration in Figure 6 below are met.
It can be seen from the technical description above that all of the SRS components and the wiring shown schematically in figure 3 are located on the passenger body shell. There are no SRS components or wiring attached to the vehicle chassis. Therefore, there is no affect on the SRS system if the body shell is raised in relation to the chassis. The only possible consideration could be that the point of impact of a collision being higher where a body lift of up to 50mm is considered. However, it is noted that raising the point of impact by the same amount can just as easily be achieved by a 50mm suspension lift that fully complies with the suspension travel requirements of VSR 8. The point of impact in a frontal collision can also be affected if the vehicle is airborne at the time of impact. This is quite probable where a vehicle leaves a built up roadway and collides with a stationery object within the shaded areas of Figure 4. Under these conditions, if deployment conditions are met, the SRS airbags will deploy regardless of whether a body lift is installed in the vehicle or not. Steering The steering wheel and column contains two SRS components. The spiral cable and the steering pad containing the driver’s side airbag. These components are not affected where a body lift is installed as the spiral cable is designed to accommodate extension and compression of the steering shaft and the adjustable height steering column. Whilst a slight alteration in steering column angle may occur because of the body lift, this is within the limits of the adjustable height steering column. Airbag deployment is not affected by extending the steering shaft and the relationship between the steering pad and the driver remains within normal ergonomic limits that are expected for drivers of different physical characteristics. Where the steering shaft need's extending, (eg. for body lifts 40mm and over), it is recommended that the steering shaft be extended by using a splined extension similar to the one shown in figure 6 below at the base of the steering shaft:
"2 x 50mm diameter x 50 mm high HDPE (high density polethelyene) or aluminium blocks 4 x 75mm diameter x 50 mm high HDPE blocks 6 x 50mm diameter x 75mm blocks for raising the tub 4 x 50mm square tub spacer brackets for supporting the raised tub in between the bodymount block. 6 x 195mm M12 x 1.25mm Grade 8.8 high tensile nickel plated bolts with nyloc nuts and washers to suit 4 x 8mm (or 10mm) radiator spacers with two holes drilled 5omm apart, (one could have a tapped thread, but nyloc nut would do. Refer to Offroad Factory's photographs below. Notes on application: Supplementary Restraint system (SRS)- not affected - produce documentation above if queried. Steering - not affected Brakes - not affected. Don't use the black 8.8 bolts as the rust from experience in this application. When fitting the HDPE blocks, Sikaflex them to the body to get rid of squeaks."
In hotter climates like Australia it may be necessary to fill in the gap above the radiator to ensure maximum airflow through the radiator core by a piece of oil resistant rubber sheeting or a block of foam (both available from Clark Rubber) so keep an eye on the temperature gauge to ensure your car is not running too hot after the body lift. Offroad Factory did not find this an issue in Germany.
Shift levers don't need any work at all. They fit nice and easy as before. The body mount blocks are 2 different sizes. The small ones you see in the pics are under the bed and the front (left & right from radiator), the 4 main body blocks are 75mm diameter. The front (radiator) ones have to be smaller in diameter in order to fit in the gap. The ones under the bed are just the same size as the bed supports. As for the gap, we'll test drive it through the next year and get results from the customer. As soon as he sees temp problems we will fill the gap with a rubber strip. On the other hand, with the stock grille the gap is not even really open."
I managed to spend most of last weekend on the ute, put the lift blocks in and test fitted the 35"s. Didn't worry about the 2" blocks, just went straight to the 3". No major dramas, the brake and fuel lines had plenty of length as did the handbrake and trans cable. One vacume line needed lengthening and an earth on the back of the transfer case needed turning around. The radiator was fairly straightforward, I didn't even pull it out. The plastic side straps come off with 3 bolts and I used 30x30 angle to mount them 75mm lower. There is a mounting tab on each strap that locates the radiator when installing and these had to be cut off. That's about it. Has to be the easiest body lift in history. The steering column extension had me stumped but I worked out how to do it on the flight home. The Marks 4WD steering extension is too short but if I make my own I should be able to get the uni in the right spot."
I finished putting the lift blocks in very late so apologise for the dark pic. I threw the 35s on the front to see how they looked before I went to bed. This is at ride height with the stock suspension. I'll put off getting the new springs until it's final weighed so I get it right."
"So the body lift is almost done..... Took the old bolts and steering shaft out on Sunday and got new ones yesterday. The steering shaft is still with the welders. Hoping to get it back today! Can't wait! In the end I had to do the following mods to accomodate my 50mm body lift. 1. Then when fitting the lift blocks at the back, the fuel filler pipe also had to be extended, but i was able to do this by getting some extra play out of the current pipes. Had to make a little relocating bracket for the filler pipe to fit properly in the fuel flap housing....(there where you goo diesel into the car) 2. Two of the load bin's 6 mounts require the bolts to go from the top down to the bottom and cause i now have longer bolts, couldn't get this into the hole, cuase the loadbin is to close to the ,ount, so have to bash that a bit and dent the load bin up a bit to get the bolts through. But was all fun. Hopefully will get the steering rod back today and fit it tonight. Ok the lift is in a looking good. My low range gear lever is rubbing however against the body so have to have a look tonight how i'm gonna allign that. Didn't have to dent the loadbin to fit the bolts of the front most body mounts. All I did was get slightly shorter bolts and lift the bin a bit higher in the air and in they went no hassles. It's better to get 40mm longer bolts for the 50mm lift and in some places i still had to add an extra washer here and there. I was able to refit my front bumber with a slight nip & tuck at the bottom. Had to cut about 3cm out the bottom middle of the bumper (still the original Toyota plastic for now) to get it to allign. But all in place now. Only thing I'd like to change is my rear Onca bull bar/tow bar. It's now sitting a bit lower (in relation to the back) but not sure how easy that'll be. Might just give them a call and see what they can come up with. Gonna go see Darryl over lunch time to discuss the suspension lift! Ok, took some pics over lunch time in the parkade (with the cell phone). tjol lighting, but anyways. The ve-hii-icle really does look the part now. Took a bit getting used to but the handling dynamics honestly remained unchanged. I don't notice any body roll at all. Parked next to a standard Hilux in the parkade yesterday and it really does look much higher. I went to go chat to Darryl from Mikem yesterday so soon as they get my parts and have a time slot, "die Brakkie" is going up another 50 -60mm. Plus i'll have the bilstein struts so i can adjust the height. (e.g like when i oneday after this can afford to add a front bumper....love the burnco bar for the Vigo Lux, by far the best looking I've ever seen here in SA!)
50mm suspension lift (TJM suspension fitted) The tyres are BFG Muds 32 X 11.5 X 16 with the new tread pattern. Because the BFG's are mounted on the original 7.5" Hilux rims, the circumference of the wheel is more than the circumference on Kaspaas' 33"s on 10" rims.
YOU ARE BIDDING TO PURCHASE A BRAND NEW ONE AND A HALF INCH AFTER MARKET BODY LIFT KIT FOR YOUR TOYOTA HI LUX VIGO. THIS KIT WHICH COMPRISES OF POLY SPACERS AND HARDWARE WHICH LIFTS THE BODY FROM THE CHASSIS WITHOUT THE NEED TO MODIFY ANY OTHER PARTS.
Tub is done, less then a hours work....fuel filler is still ok-ish....will need some minor mods to sit as per factory again, doesn't look too hard at all, and is still driveable with no mods other then un-bolting the filler neck bracket off the chassis. As above in the quotes from Max's post, the two front bolts on the tub wont work if you go a full 50mm longer, you cant phsically get them in there. I've used two short ones I had lying around which are 65mm long, but it would be nice to have a little more thread engaged, so will get some 70mm long ones tomo. Looking forward to the big day tomo! 7:30am start! Amount of blocks is definetley 12.....6 on the cab, 6 on the tub."
Radiator drop brackets worked great, made out of 6mm stainless stell, with a tapped top hole and counter sunk S/S allen key bolt for the bottom one that goes into the std. radiator mount. Kane (mates workshop I did it at) will be able to make them for others if needed.
Hey guys, that light blue hilux is mine. (the one mmaaxx posted above) I first did a 50mm body lift and now in the process of doing the suspension lift. Ok, to give you some info: 1) What i did wrong was not move the radiator, instead i cut the cowling, cause in a stuper, when looking at dropping the radiator i thought the cross memeber was way too close - that's cause i looked at it before the body was lifted, so after the body is lifted 50mm there's plenty of space to drop the radiator. Drop it!! 2) There's one pype in the engine bay that needs lengthening though - when standing in front of the car looking into the engine bay, it's connected from the lower right hand side of the engine (about 30cm below the power steering reservoir and runs to a steel pipe connected to the body of the car, roughly under the battery. Let me know if you need more info as to which one i'm talking about and i'll try load pics. 3) My fuel filler pipe was a bit short, but there was enought play at the diesel tank side so i just pulle dit out a cm or 2 and re-clamped it. Had to then make a little steel bracket to re-allign where the fuel filler bracket gets attached to the chassis.......quite close to the tub's one body mount. Just make sure you remove your fuel filler when jacking up the car, as the cap will pull of and might break..... 4) Another must (on the manual, dunno about the auto) is to do a bit of grinding for the transfer case lever. If you lift it, you wont be able to move it! so you gotta remove the centre console and then remove the rubber covering that sort of keeps water and dust out of the cab, and then grind/saw/file the body away. I had to remove a piece around 5 x 2 cm from the left of the transfer case. Other than that, the only thing i couldn't and wouldn't dare do my self is extend the steering column/shaft that runs from the firewall down to the steering rack. I had it extended by 45mm at an enginerring/welding co....That cost me around $70 (aus) if i convert. So that was the only thing i had to wait for. Took me 2 days. Probably around 10 hours. Best thing is to check and listen when you jack. Rather safe than sorry. Now busy with the suspension...........
For Further Explanation on what is a bodylift? What does it do to a vehicle? and How does it affect vehicle performance, ability and handleing, please check out the following link at the 4Crawler website -
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